Fixing minor fit and finish issues.

[BigBird123]

My Mizuno gyuto has some very minor fit and finish issues. None of issues are that noticeable and there is absolutely no effect on function, but since I'm using the knife often (and enjoying it immensely!), I thought I would spiff it up a bit.

1. There is a slight difference in the level between the magnolia handle and the buffalo horn ferule. Would sandpaper work to smooth things out a bit? If so, what grit would you recommend to avoid scratching up the buffalo horn?

2. The finish on the choil is a bit rough and uneven. Also, I'd like to round off the edges on the spine. Would sandpaper work for this and if so, what grit? Would a small file work a bit better on the choil and if so, what would you recomend? (I don't know that it matters, but it's a carbon steel knife with a blue steel #2 edge.)

3. How well does wax work in place of epoxy for sealing the area where the tang enters the handle? Is there a way to apply the wax that will produce a better seal? How often should it be refreshed?

Thank you in advance for any advice!

-Liz

[Kit Craft]

My Mizuno gyuto has some very minor fit and finish issues. None of issues are that noticeable and there is absolutely no effect on function, but since I'm using the knife often (and enjoying it immensely!), I thought I would spiff it up a bit.

1. There is a slight difference in the level between the magnolia handle and the buffalo horn ferule. Would sandpaper work to smooth things out a bit? If so, what grit would you recommend to avoid scratching up the buffalo horn?

2. The finish on the choil is a bit rough and uneven. Also, I'd like to round off the edges on the spine. Would sandpaper work for this and if so, what grit? Would a small file work a bit better on the choil and if so, what would you recomend? (I don't know that it matters, but it's a carbon steel knife with a blue steel #2 edge.)

3. How well does wax work in place of epoxy for sealing the area where the tang enters the handle? Is there a way to apply the wax that will produce a better seal? How often should it be refreshed?

Thank you in advance for any advice!

-Liz

Were I you I would use 3m blue painters tape around the horn, a few layers, and then sand. I start with 80 grit and progress from there because I have loads of low grit sandpaper but you can start much finer than that.

If you want to clean up the choil and then knock off the corners a file will work faster than sandpaper. Follow that with sandpaper if you wish to clean it up and then round it out. You could even use a water stone to knock of the corners but a file is my preference.

I melt wax in tang gaps all of the time and it works fine. My oldest Tojiro is just under two years old and the wax is still in place.

[Bensbites]

I will only address #3 because it is how I treat my post installs. I coat the handle and blade with board conditioner (mineral oil and beeswax) except for the area I want to touch up. Then I use superglue to fill gaps.

[BigBird123]

Thanks for the advice. I'll tape the ferule up and give it a go.

Take care!

[Kalaeb]

1) It really depends on how much of a gap. If there is a big difference you may need to take it with a coarse grit. Preventing the horn from getting scuffed during the process is difficult. Once the junction is level, a buffer is the best way to clean up scratches on the horn. If you dont have a buffer, even an attachment for a standard 3/8 drill can work wonders on horn.
2)I have never been very good at getting even finishes with files. I usually start with an 120 grit wet/dry sand paper and rock it back and forth.
3)If the handle is going to be a permanent fixture, why not use epoxy? No fuss, no re-application and no worry about water getting in the body of the handle. If you are looking to take the handle off frequently for maintenance then you can use wax, caulk or any number of other substitutes. (I like Sugru)

[MattinPA]

This seems like an appropriate thread to ask if CKTG board wax could be stiff enough to use for a very small handle-tang gap. I know it's not made for that, but just wondering. I can judge when I get it and use it anyway for its intended purpose, but if anyone had thoughts (like, what, are you crazy?) I'd welcome them. I know I can find proper beeswax if I look around, but don't want to make a big scavenger hunt out of what ought to be a simple fix.

[Jeff B]

This seems like an appropriate thread to ask if CKTG board wax could be stiff enough to use for a very small handle-tang gap. I know it's not made for that, but just wondering. I can judge when I get it and use it anyway for its intended purpose, but if anyone had thoughts (like, what, are you crazy?) I'd welcome them. I know I can find proper beeswax if I look around, but don't want to make a big scavenger hunt out of what ought to be a simple fix.

I would use pure beeswax if you're going that route, board wax(butter) isn't going to stay there long.
Hot glue, epoxy, superglue, silicone are all good and more permanent solutions.

[MattinPA]

I would use pure beeswax if you're going that route

Cool. I sort of figured it might not last. I'd hit it with epoxy and be done, especially as the handle is pretty nice and I don't envision wanting to change it, but this one (Kuwabara nakiri) is very, very rustic and it just seems right to go with the wax.

[DanRyan]

When I do handles I stop at around 400 grit, smooth enough and you can still get some effects when you sand at that grit without it taking forever

For actual knife touchups like smoothing out the spine or something like that, I bought a tacklife belt sander and it is one you can turn upside down and bolt to a desk/table/whatever with the included clamps, I turn that baby on and use 600-800 grit belts and it can do wonders

For sealing knives I use waterproof silicon, if you ever need to do touchups (I've never had to do one) it is very easy

[rjsprague2]

Having trouble with my Kohetsu gyuto rusting I dry the know well before putting back in the saya but still rusts slightly. Is there a way to remove the rust safely and prevent this issue in the future? After wiping dry should I air dry as well prior to putting back into the saya?

[XexoX]

Having trouble with my Kohetsu gyuto rusting I dry the know well before putting back in the saya but still rusts slightly. Is there a way to remove the rust safely and prevent this issue in the future? After wiping dry should I air dry as well prior to putting back into the saya?

I believe sayas are for transporting knives, not for storing them. That might be part of the problem. But air drying the knife is a smart idea.

[Bensbites]

Having trouble with my Kohetsu gyuto rusting I dry the know well before putting back in the saya but still rusts slightly. Is there a way to remove the rust safely and prevent this issue in the future? After wiping dry should I air dry as well prior to putting back into the saya?

Many ways to remove rust. My preferred method is to take dry baking soda and rub the blade with a dry or slightly damp sponge. Because baking soda is basic, you don’t risk any acid etching of the blade if not completely cleaned and neutralized.

Are you sure you are seeing rust not patina? Rust color will transfer to your finger or towel when rubbed. Patina will not transfer color.

[taz575]

Saya are for transportation, not long term storage unless the blade is coated with oil and even then it's not always a guarantee. Some glues can off gas chemicals that can corrode a blade. Titebond 3 can off gas and cause rust, but Quick and Thick and Titebond 1 don't off gas.

[Lostacks]

I did not know about these issues. I always kept my knives in the sayas but yet again they are used regularly.I definitely have to look out for this in the future.