Questions about caring for new Konosuke Fujiyama

[Neveronce420]

My first “real” knife; a Konosuke FM 255 Fujiyama, proceeded to slice the thinnest tomato of my life (boy was it good with a some mozzarella, basil and olive oil)! I was hoping, this noob could receive some “care” tips.
https://imgur.com/a/hZJKXkZ

[cliff]

Wow, that is starting off strong. Above all, dry carefully after each use. I use a dry kitchen towel and then a microfiber cloth. What kind of cutting board do you have? Glass, marble, and bamboo all destroy knives. Do you know how to sharpen? Avoid sending it out to anyone unless they use whetstones. How do you store it? The box is a good option, when in doubt.

[Neveronce420]

Wow so much good advise, lots to dive into; thank you!

[Neveronce420]

I noticed there were “spots” or small shaded areas on the knife after I used it that didn’t come off after cleaning and drying, Is that normal?

[iandustries]

yes the spots are probably patina, which is normal. As long as you cant rub it off with a cloth. If you can, then thats probably rust.

[Jeff B]

I noticed there were “spots” or small shaded areas on the knife after I used it that didn’t come off after cleaning and drying, Is that normal?

Your knife has iron cladding, eventually it will look like some of these...https://www.chefknivestogoforums.com/vi ... 3174#p3174

[TylerLeach]

Wow. That is one hell of a first knife, sir. Yes, as these guys all said keep the knife clean and dry. The iron cladding on Fujiyamas is very very reactive and it will get “marks” and also colors on it very quickly. This is not a bad thing. The core steel, or the part of the blade right around the cutting edge is a high carbon steel so it will also take on colors and spots but at a slightly different rate and the colors or spots might look different than the ones on the rest of the blade.

[XexoX]

If you are very worried about rust, you could put an extremely light coating of oil on the blade, after the blade is dry. Very dry. Dryer than a very dry martini.

You could use food grade mineral oil, sold in pharmacies as a laxitive, or Tsubaki Camellia Oil 100ml or Tsubaki Camellia Oil 245ml or wrap the blade in VCI Rust Inhibitor Paper 12"x12".

[mauichef]

^^^^^^
What Xexox said!
Tsubaki and VCI.
Every one of my Fujiyamas are coated and wrapped. If not I have a rusty mess.

[slensgra]

Nice Knife! I second what has been said. If the humidity in your home is below about 50%, you shouldn't have too much problem with rust as long as you dry the knife carefully after use. If you do get some rust (as opposed to patina) a little Barkeeper's Friend will remove it. Enjoy it! It is after all just a thing to be used.

[mauichef]

What Jay said is spot on.
Some surface stuff can be taken care of with BKF but rust can pit the steel at any time. (Shigafusa and Kato knives are particularly bad for this in my sad experience.)
Then you will cry!
Then your tears will drip on the knife and it will rust more.
Don't be a cryer.
Keep it dry.
Aloha!

[Dzieke]

Clean and dry. Clean and dry. Especially after cutting onions!

[aporigine]

sold in pharmacies as a laxative,

no sh**?

[taz575]

Yes, mineral oil is a laxative and works well on wooden cutting boards and carbon blades. When I acid etch carbon blades, I put a coat of mineral oil on the right away and then wipe off a few hours later.