Removing an epoxy glued handle

[mth711]

Hi everyone, I'm new here, looking for some advice. I have a Nishida 180 mm santoku, amazing blade but it came with a terrible handle so I changed it, and glued the new one in place with epoxy resin. The new handle was a fairly cheap oval one, as the one I wanted at the time was out of stock, with no restock in the near future, but the one I like is now back in stock, and if possible I'd like to update the handle. Does anyone have any advice on getting an epoxy resin glued handle off? Other than sawing down the side of the handle next to the tang, and filing off any epoxy that stays? If possible I'd like to avoid this to reduce the risk of damaging the tang.

Thanks

[taz575]

What epoxy did you use? 5 Minute epoxy and even Devcon 2 ton will often release or soften if you boil the handle in water (212 degrees). I use JB Kwik Weld, which is good up to 300 degrees, so boiling doesn't work. Sawing down the tang (or using a chisel to split the handle along the tang) would probably work if you don't want to save the handle.

I used to do a lot of rehandles. To remove the old handle, I would tape the blade to protect it and the edge and put a piece of 1/2" thick x2" wide wood a few inches longer than the blade length along the side of the knife/on top of the ferrule and would hammer on the top end of the wood piece so it would be pushing the wood along the side of the blade directly down onto the ferrule to push the handle off. This may help after the epoxy is loosened with the heat. A heat gun may also work to loosen the epoxy? Hammering on the ferrule when regular epoxy resin is used typically won't work without somehow degrading the epoxy strength first (usually by heat)

I rehandled a western knife I made around 20 years ago. Had to grind down the pins, hammer them out and then hammer a razor blade between the handle scale and tang to pop the scales off and still some micarta was stuck to the tang. When used properly, Epoxies can be some tough stuff!

[mth711]

I used Loctite extreme 1-5 minute epoxy, I'll give boiling it a go, I don't have a heat gun, but I stuck it in the oven on a high temp for a while, which unfortunately didn't do too much. If boiling it doesn't work then I'll probs just saw it off, not really fussed with keeping the old handle. I'll get back with the results, thanks for the advice.

[taz575]

Put the knife handle in boiling water for several minutes. The oven may not get the epoxy inside the handle hot (in hot air), but being in the hot water, it may transfer the heat better/quicker to the inside of the handle.

[Nochop!]

Be careful of oven temps above 350'ish.

I've never met a handle I couldn't get off, except for when there are barbs ground into the tang.

Boiling almost always works. I wrap the handle really good in plastic wrap, and let it simmer for a good 5 minutes or more. I use a 2x4 and I really give it some serious wacks on the pavement.

For melt glue and wood cement I just use a heat gun on a stand.

[XexoX]

Not to hijack this thread, but is beeswax ever used for handle installs? If it works, seems like that would be the way to go for when they need to be replaced.

Back to your regularly scheduled thread, in progress.

[Bensbites]

Not to hijack this thread, but is beeswax ever used for handle installs? If it works, seems like that would be the way to go for when they need to be replaced.

Back to your regularly scheduled thread, in progress.

Beeswax and hot melt glue can be used. There are pros and cons to
All three options.

[PaulME]

Good news is you used a quick set epoxy which as been noted are not nearly as robust as the regular stuff (note that there are epoxy with temp ranges well over 1000 deg. If you used loc rite go to the Henkel page and look at the tech data sheet - it should give the upper range. The one I checked (a 5 min version) listed as not suitable for use above 305f for short periods. Yup that’s above boiling but if you can deal with a longer soak it will prob work, another option use oil - deep fry temp around 350 and you should be good to go. The one handle I removed and reinstalled is a Tojiro ITK no epoxy there originally and I did not use any on re-attach. If I were paranoid about water ingress I would fill gap with beeswax as has been stated or optionally just a bit of some type of glue at the top of the joint to seal, not try to glue the whole tang. A small amount of consumer grade glue or epoxy just at the joint should break with the 2x4 type handle removal methods noted above.

Good luck
Paul

[Tostadas]

If boiling, it helps to wrap in something sort of water proof like a plastic bag to keep the wood dry (if you plan on salvaging the old handle)

[ChefKnivesToGo]

If boiling, it helps to wrap in something sort of water proof like a plastic bag to keep the wood dry (if you plan on salvaging the old handle)

I wrap them in a ziplock bag and then put them in a mug of hot water for about 3 minutes and they usually can get knocked off in 1 piece.

[stewssy]

just dont burn it off. i made that mistake and ruined the heat treatment on my kohetsu and broke the tang