Chefknivestogo Forums

I'm not sure about it, but I think Nakagawa did those for Hitohira.

I thought these were forged by Nakagawa?

Works great as a purée. This recipe is for parsnips, but it should work just fine:

https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/parsnip-puree

As others have said, soft stainless isn't worth taking that fine. But very hard white and blue paper steels (maybe not all AS) do well at high refinement, if that's what you're looking for. I'll finish my Y. Tanaka B1 or my relatively softer Ashi Ginga W2 sujis pretty fine when I'm using them on fis...

I think Shapton Pro are outstanding stones and very good value. You won't go wrong starting with the 1K and then adding a coarse and fine as needed. I started with the Imanishi Combination stone (1K and 6K). It served me well for quite awhile. ETA - For what it's worth, I have heard good things abou...

I have this exact knife and love it. For those hesitating over a 270, it's Sakai-sized, so a little shorter, and it is very, very nimble. If I had to have one knife, this would be it.

I think of "sharp" as a composite term. It can mean a few things. A toothy edge can be sharp, but I don't think a keen one can be toothy. I think keen refers to polished edge.

Just found this. Look at 1:05

Bourdain's chapter in Medium Raw on Justo Thomas, the fish butcher at Le Bernadin, makes much the same point. Thomas doesn't use Japanese knives, and he also doesn't keep them as highly polished as possible, preferring some feedback, so they don't slip.

I started with a sharpening set with the Imanishi combo-stone. Followed that a few months later with a stainless-clad Goko in White no. 1. Somehow did not stop there.

I tend to finish mine on a fine Aoto or Belgian Blue, so around 4K

R2 does feel a bit tinny. I assume it just performs better thin and would feel brittle in a workhorse grind. Maybe it would be that much harder to sharpen?

Picking up on the Kurosaki threat, and not wanting to derail, I wonder how wide a range of heat treats there are? With other steels, there can be a pretty big range, but I haven't seen it with R2. Are there maybe regional differences? Sukenari often takes things pretty high. They took their AS and t...

Along these lines, get a jeweler's loupe. Look at your edges under magnification. Along with the sharpie, this will let you see what's going on.

That's what I use on acorn squash and the like. Butternut I don't find too challenging, but I don't use convexed, workhorse grinds on really tough stuff. They tend to wedge, no matter how good the grind.

G3 is fully stainless and broadly similar to white no. 2 (otherwise). Moritaka's AS will be quite a bit harder, more brittle, and have a much longer lasting edge.

I think the process can range from fairly simple to very involved. The simplest way to do it would be to get some sandpaper and wrap it around a soft backing, like a wine cork, and go heel to tip. Start at 400 grit or so and work your way up as high as you like. You can use mud from synthetics or na...

It is a Yoshimitsu Fugen White #1, which I think is somewhere in the middle of the spectrum leaning toward more robust. Jeff's described technique should be appropriate for this knife I assume? Should be fine. I sometimes use the old Jacques Pépin approach, even with my Shibata (minus the crushing)...

It also depends on the knife. With something a little more robust, like a Mac or Misono, I don't hesitate. With something super thin and fragile feeling, Yoshikane or Shibata, I really watch my technique.

I think Nakagawa looks beautiful. I worry Yoshikane has a very flat profile for someone who is used to rocking. I'll add these: https://www.chefknivestogo.com/hakubl2gy24.html https://www.chefknivestogo.com/kusesg2gy24.html https://www.chefknivestogo.com/mabl2nagy24.html https://www.chefknivestogo.c...