::facepalm:: chip advice

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ken123
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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by ken123 »

Even though it is quite coarse it gives you more control vs heat with a sander. As I mentioned this 24 grit is a beast and I would go for the 46 or 80 grit stones instead as a personal first choice. It would make for an easier scratch pattern to remove.

If you go the Atoma or 400 grit route let us know how it works out.

Ken

Ken

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by Fredward »

Okay! Time for the first update. I’ve managed to turn my lovely Nakiri into a large letter opener lol! No but it’s going well I think. I am quite pleased with what I’ve gotten done so far.

Please note to anyone reading this I have no experience with this and it would be best to follow someone else’s instruction. I’m just experimenting and having fun and sharing the journey. Along with trying to take the advice of the talented people on this forum.

I decided to start out the process with a brick. Obviously not the best surface but I chose the smoothest spot and just worked the jagged bit down smooth. Using mostly a sawing motion
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Then I used the atoma 140 on the entire edge, sawing into the plate too but mostly perpendicular swipes like the video of Ken with the 24 grit stone. I threw in some work at a steep angle on either side in an attempt to bevel. or I don’t know. Probably just wasting my time with that. Lol. Like I said. I’m just winging it. Aaaaand this is where I stopped.
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So from the get go I planned to leave a little bit of a rock and the very back of the blade just to keep from hitting the chin before I get through the ingredients.

From here I plan to set the new bevel with the atoma, then go through my naniwas 500,1000,3000 what do you all think? Always open to insight, suggestions, advice etc. thanks!

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by jmcnelly85 »

I’d smooth the profile a little more first, some of those high spots might make a few accordions. Pay attention to the thickness behind the edge by looking at the choil from the vantage point of the handle. Don’t be surprised if some meaty shoulders are getting in the way of optimized performance. I would tackle these areas before setting a new bevel. Once you are at the bevel stage, shine a bright light at the apex of the edge. Once you have a dark line with no reflective spots you should have a nice apex. A tricky part of this stage that took me a bit to understand is that you may need to go beyond the phase of forming a burr to carve a completely new bevel after a major repair.

Awesome work so far, keep on grinding. Getting that chip had to be rewarding.

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by Fredward »

jmcnelly85 wrote:
Wed Jul 29, 2020 11:33 pm
I’d smooth the profile a little more first, some of those high spots might make a few accordions. Pay attention to the thickness behind the edge by looking at the choil from the vantage point of the handle. Don’t be surprised if some meaty shoulders are getting in the way of optimized performance. I would tackle these areas before setting a new bevel. Once you are at the bevel stage, shine a bright light at the apex of the edge. Once you have a dark line with no reflective spots you should have a nice apex. A tricky part of this stage that took me a bit to understand is that you may need to go beyond the phase of forming a burr to carve a completely new bevel after a major repair.

Awesome work so far, keep on grinding. Getting that chip had to be rewarding.

Thanks! Good advice. I assumed I could get those two high spots out in the sharpening process. I’ll work it down some more first then.

I’m having trouble picturing what your explaining with the shining light at the apex though. Could you elaborate or demonstrate with a picture?

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by d_rap »

Great to see Fred. Really encouraging results.
David

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by jmcnelly85 »

Place the spine of the blade on the cutting board so the cutting edge of the blade is facing the sky. Hold a bright led flashlight or other bright light source above the edge pointed directly down towards the blade. On a dull blade, you’ll notice spots and areas that reflect, as your apex is formed, these spots turn into a solid black line.

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by Fredward »

jmcnelly85 wrote:
Thu Jul 30, 2020 9:48 am
Place the spine of the blade on the cutting board so the cutting edge of the blade is facing the sky. Hold a bright led flashlight or other bright light source above the edge pointed directly down towards the blade. On a dull blade, you’ll notice spots and areas that reflect, as your apex is formed, these spots turn into a solid black line.
Ohhh. I smell what your cookin now. 😉. Yeah my Tanaka has the completely black line, the Nakiri is solid shine lol. So am I supposed to get the nice black line apex with the atoma before I move onto sharpening?

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by jmcnelly85 »

Once you are sharpening and establishing the new apex, use the black line indicator to tell once the apex has formed. With all of the grinding and serious removal that has occurred, it will be a more accurate indicator for when to proceed than relying on burr detection because you will probably need to grind past the point of forming a burr.

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by Kalaeb »

I think you pretty dang well considering it was your first, nice work!

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by michael1778 »

Kalaeb wrote:
Fri Jul 31, 2020 1:58 pm
I think you pretty dang well considering it was your first, nice work!
Sincerely, I must agree!!
And with others, I express my relief that nobody was hurt by it or trying to catch it falling.

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by Fredward »

Thanks guys, and gals?, for all the kind words and advice. I Finished the job today. I think It’s safe to say I’m not going to quit my nursing gig as this took me all of 3-4 hours and like 3 days lol. It really kills my back with all the looking down and slightly bending over. I have to take a yoga/stretch break after each stone lol.

I just have to say I am beyond satisfied by the end result! I used the atoma 140 for a while until I was satisfied with the bevel, used the light to inspect the apex, then went onto the Naniwa 400, 1000, and 3000. After some time on the 400 the back 1/3 of the edge wasn’t cutting very well so I went through the whole process again On the 400, got another small burr, and just focused on that angle. Went slow, very slow. This time the edge was where I wanted. Spent some time on the 1000 and the OMG lovely 3000. I just love that stone. It feels like it does more than the 1000 somehow.

I did also spend some time flattening each stone with the atoma before hand. Both the 1000 and 3000 came with a spot where the abrasive material clumped and didn’t mix with the substrate. Or that’s how I imagined this little defect forming.

Here’s some pictures. I spent some good time trying to take a picture that could show off the edge but man is that difficult. So here’s a choil shot and a side shot. You’ll just have to take my word it’s sharp lol. I was able to push cut a piece of newspaper with no slicing at all. And was for sure sharper than when I got it after mark sharpened it. I went for 12 deg. Might have been a little less at the end of the day and I checked it with an angle guide every once in a while.
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I do have to admit it was NOT a perfect fix however. I ended up with ZERO flat spot. I has a very slight, but very consistent belly throughout the entire edge. I haven’t cut anything but dead tree carcass yet So we’ll see if it affects performance but it’s safe to say it’s definitely more of a push with a small rock cutter now. I think it’s going to be fine. Either way for my first real sharpening project, aside from my practice knives, I’m fuxkin stoked! It wa a white #1 steel. Now I’m very curious to sharpen my Tanaka and compare the steels feel.

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by jmcnelly85 »

Awesome work, looks better than my first time doing it.

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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by michael1778 »

"Either way for my first real sharpening project, aside from my practice knives, I’m fuxkin stoked! It wa a white #1 steel. Now I’m very curious to sharpen my Tanaka and compare the steels feel."

LOL....oh you caught the bug bad!

After major damage like that you repaired it and got a killer edge. Sure, the profile is slightly altered. I have NO doubt you can correct that later with more experience and gentle work over time. You rock, plain and simple.

-- Mike

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ken123
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Re: ::facepalm:: chip advice

Post by ken123 »

3 days /hours is a long time. Using the nursing analogy taking that long to start an IV wouldn't win you any friends :) The results look great! Patience has its reward. As you use the knife pay attention to the flatness of the edge and the amount of rocker in the belly for subsequent sharpening sessions. This becomes a matter of personal preference. I like a flatter profile giving me more cut area but I'm more of a push cutter. If this becomes something you do more often, consider some coarser stones to save time.

Good job. And some great guidance from jmcnelly!

---
Ken

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