I'm not a fan of counting strokes since each stroke can have varying pressure etc. Ultimately you need to go by feel and paper cutting performance . I'm a fan of minimizing burr size ( or even none at all). I also don't debur with felt. Even paper cutting does some deburring and can improve edge cut...
Could you specify what finish sharpening entails? I usually find I can get a knife even sharper but sharper is a quantitative thing. So a white steel knife typically can get quite sharp but not necessarily hold its edge as well as an AS blade. So what grit is a minimal finish sharpening edge? Would ...
I have several. They sharpen up very well. Early on I put a screaming edge on one for trimming hedges. Single passes. Unfortunately I did one pass along the front of a hedge. It ended up stuck in my calf muscle - inch deep and 2 inches long, cutting my soleus muscle. Healed well and got a tetanus sh...
With the selection of Nubatama stones with their different characteristics there's a Stine for many different needs. The 1200 is a great muddy stone - perfect for single bevels and very flexible. It is quite popular even at the Tsukiji market (in its day). Almost opposite what you would expect using...
"Ken, given the embarrassment of choice that Nubatama offers, is there any one stone in the 1K range that you would recommend as an alternative to the Naniwa/Shapton/Chocera?" Either the speckled Ume or Platinum 1k. I would pick the regular hardness rather than xhard versions unless you li...
Jeff has a point. Some 1k stones cut fast for their grit due to having a high abrasive density but coarser grit stones are a good alternative - sometimes as coarse as 24 grit or a more comfortable 150 grit. Coarser grits save a lot of time. I'm also a fan of coarse grits too.
Not a big fan of the three finger test but YMMV. I find at 10x you can see most problems but of course more resolution and magnification is good. I do like freehand sharpening but guided systems have their place too. More questions? Just ask. We are all here searching for perfection...
Don't use sandpaper for this application unless it is 5000 grit or so. As you have seen coarse sandpaper is not optimal.
Diamond plates generate too coarse of a finish unless it is a 3k plate. Even then I would recommend a properly selected tomonagura.
I've repaired a debate that was used to chop up frozen oxtails. Major repair. Father used his sons deba. Learned the hard way.
I've used western debas for cutting through ribs and even a bit of gardening cutting tree roots. Go for the western.
jacko9 talks about the Nubatama 1k, but I'm a little unsure of which one. I recently added a new 1k stone to my collection & that was a Nubatama Platinum, which comes in three flavours those being normal, hard & extra hard (I think, Ken correct me if I'm wrong here). Mine is the "hard&...
With 9 different Nubatama 1 k stones as well as Choceras, Shaptons etc, as wel as other synthetic and natural stones, just picking a random 1k out of the crowd is just a bit too random of a choice. Ideally you should narrow down your choices a bit more :) - hard soft, muddy, natural synthetic combo ...
ken123 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 21, 2021 12:11 pm
8 k snow white or Nubatama bamboo 10 k would be my choices or1.5 micron CBN on a kangaroo strop
Ken
I forgot about the Nubstama 8k speckled Ume! Very hard and precise. Perfect for razors. Easy to sharpen at 8k. If you want to go past this consider the Naniwa 10k and 12 k superstones.
Ken